Wind simulators for sim racing: do they add anything?
A wind simulator is one or two fans whose speed is driven by your in-sim speed through SimHub. On the straights they spin up; under braking they ease off. That is the whole trick, and it is worth being clear up front: a wind simulator adds immersion and a speed reference, it does not make you faster. It feeds no information your eyes and the wheel are not already giving you. The drivers who run one say it feels great. None of them say it dropped their lap times.
So this is an immersion purchase, in the same family as a bass shaker but lower on the priority list, because a shaker gives you a real grip cue and wind does not.
What it actually does
Section titled “What it actually does”Three things, in order of how much they matter:
- Speed reference. Air pressure on your face rises with speed, so a hard braking zone feels like a deceleration instead of just looking like one. This is the strongest argument for it, and it is most convincing in VR where you have no peripheral view of the cockpit to read speed from.
- Cooling. A recurring reason people build one is simple: a fan pointed at your face is welcome under a hot VR headset. The wind-sim use is a bonus on top of the cooling.
- Immersion. It rounds out a haptics stack. On its own it is a novelty; layered with a shaker and good FFB it sells the sensation of speed.
What it does not do is matter for race results. It carries no FFB value and no grip information. Treat it as the polish layer.
How the SimHub mapping works
Section titled “How the SimHub mapping works”SimHub is the same software that drives bass shakers and rev LEDs, and it controls fans the same way. It reads the sim’s telemetry, then outputs a PWM (pulse-width-modulation) signal that scales fan RPM to whatever channel you point it at — usually speed, sometimes RPM. You set the curve yourself: idle the fans below, say, 40 km/h so they are not roaring at pit-out, then ramp to full by top speed.
Run two fans on separate channels and you can get fancier. Commercial kits like OCRacing’s WindSim PRO bias the left and right fans for cornering and draft effects, so a slipstream or a yaw moment nudges the airflow side to side. It is a neat effect; it is also firmly in the “nice to have” column.
DIY vs commercial kits
Section titled “DIY vs commercial kits”This is where the community splits, and it splits on patience.
The DIY route
Section titled “The DIY route”The standard DIY build is one or two high-airflow PWM fans driven by an Arduino through a motor shield, configured with the Arduino Setup Tool built into SimHub. The SimHub wiki documents the PWM fan wiring, and there is a section specifically for fans under the ShakeIt effects. A motor shield is the clean way to do it — people who tried to drive fans straight off Arduino pins learn why the shield exists. Expect to spend an evening on wiring and getting the curve right.
If you do not want to touch an Arduino, there is a lighter path: a couple of PWM PC fans and the free Fan Control desktop app reading a speed value. It is cruder and less flexible than the SimHub route, but it works and costs almost nothing beyond the fans.
For the fans themselves, you want high static pressure, not just high CFM, so the air still carries after a nozzle or duct. Two 120-140mm fans is the common count. Noctua’s NV-FS1 is a popular high-quality choice: an NF-A12x25 PWM fan with an airflow amplifier and a pivoting mount. One catch the community flags — it ships with a manual speed knob (the NA-FC1), so to get variable, speed-linked output you still drive the fan’s PWM line from SimHub or an Arduino rather than the bundled controller.
The commercial route
Section titled “The commercial route”Plug-and-play kits exist and they are not cheap. HSimRacing sells SimHub-powered kits rated around 210+ CFM through focused nozzles, tiered from a Club series up. OCRacing’s WindSim PRO runs roughly €196 for a four-fan, two-channel build on ARCTIC P14 fans with a SimHub control box. The honest reddit reaction to the asking prices is “way overpriced” — and for a fan-on-a-stick that is a fair gut response. What you pay for is the control box, the nozzles, the mounts, and not spending an evening with a soldering iron.
Mounting is the same problem either way: the nozzles need to sit at forehead height aimed slightly down, which on most cockpits means clamping to the monitor stand or an upright. An aluminum profile rig makes this trivial — a roll-in T-nut and a bracket and the fans are wherever you want them.
Where it ranks against a bass shaker
Section titled “Where it ranks against a bass shaker”If you are choosing where the next immersion dollar goes, buy the shaker first. The bass shakers and haptics page makes the case in full, but the short version: a rear-of-seat shaker tuned to wheelslip buzzes just before the rear lets go, which is a cue you can actually drive off. Wind gives you nothing equivalent. It is the layer you add once the haptics are sorted, when you want the rig to feel like 200 km/h as well as look like it — most of all in VR, where the speed reference and the cooling stack into one genuinely good reason to bother.
Bought as an immersion layer, a wind simulator is a satisfying weekend project or a tidy commercial add-on. Bought as a performance upgrade, it will disappoint, because it does not feed you anything the wheel and your eyes are not already supplying.
Frequently asked questions
Do wind simulators make you faster in sim racing?
No. A wind simulator adds a speed reference and immersion, but it feeds no information your eyes and the wheel do not already give you. Drivers who add one report it feels great, not that it dropped their lap times. Spend on a load cell brake and a bass shaker first if speed is the goal.
How does a wind simulator know how fast the car is going?
SimHub reads the sim's telemetry and outputs a PWM signal that scales fan speed to in-game speed. The fans spin up on the straights and ease off under braking. You map the curve yourself, so the wind tracks whatever channel you point it at.
Can I build a DIY wind simulator with PC fans?
Yes. The common build is one or two high-airflow PWM fans driven by an Arduino through a motor shield, configured with the Arduino Setup Tool inside SimHub. The SimHub wiki documents the PWM fan wiring. Budget builders use the free Fan Control app instead of an Arduino if they only need speed-linked output.
Is a wind simulator better than a bass shaker?
For most people, no. A bass shaker gives a usable grip-limit cue you can drive off, while wind is immersion only. If you have not bought a shaker yet, buy that first. Wind is the layer you add after haptics, not before.
How much airflow does a sim racing wind simulator need?
Enough to feel on your face at speed, not enough to dry your eyes out. Commercial entry kits run around 200+ CFM through focused nozzles; DIY builds with one or two 120-140mm high-static-pressure PC fans land in a similar range. Aim the nozzles at your forehead, not your eyes.